FAQ
Floor Questions
Should I DIY the 1:1 or hire an installer with the 2:1?
A sound residential slab with normal use: the 1:1 kit is genuinely within one careful weekend of DIY skill. A shop floor with chemical exposure, heavy pitting, or moisture readings: hire it out — the 2:1 at proper build with grinder prep is worth an installer's day rate. We will tell you which side of that line your floor is on if you send photos.
What causes hot-tire peel, and does SlabLock have it?
Hot-tire pickup happens when a soft or poorly-bonded coating gets kneaded by a warm tire until it lets go — a chemistry-plus-prep failure. Applied per spec on profiled concrete, neither SlabLock kit exhibits it; the 1:1 polyurea in particular stays hard well past tire temperatures.
How much kit for a two-car garage?
Figure 400–450 sq ft. The 1:1 covers ~250 sq ft per mixed gallon per coat — two coats means 4 gallons, or one standard large kit with flake. Add Fast-Patch if the slab has spalls or cracks (most do). Exact counts come free with a photo of your floor.
How soon can I park on it?
Walk on it at 12 hours, park at 48, and give it a full week before oil changes and jack stands. Rushing the 48 is the one mistake we cannot coat over.
My garage floor gets damp patches in spring. Can I still coat?
Do the overnight plastic-sheet test first. Condensation under the plastic means moisture vapor is moving through the slab, and you need the vapor-tolerant primer under either kit. Skipping it is the #1 cause of coating failure on below-grade and spring-damp slabs — the primer costs far less than a redo.
Can I coat in an unheated garage in winter?
The slab needs to be 50°F and dry, and cure times roughly double at the bottom of that range. A torpedo heater the day before and during application makes winter jobs workable — just vent it, and never point it at wet coating. Below 40°F slab temperature, wait for spring.
Pick My Kit
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