Floors & Repairs

Concrete looks permanent and behaves like a sponge. An uncoated garage slab drinks road salt off your undercarriage all winter, dusts constantly, stains at the first oil drip, and spalls where water freezes in its pores. Coating the slab isn't cosmetic — it's waterproofing the one surface in the house that gets driven on. SlabLock makes two kit systems and a repair product, and the right choice depends on your floor and your patience.

The 1:1 kit — the weekend floor

Our polyurea-based 1:1 system mixes one-to-one by volume — no scale, no math errors — and moves fast: down in a day, walkable next morning, park on it in 48 hours. It's the kit we point DIYers to: forgiving working time, self-priming on sound concrete, and tough enough that hot tires, jack stands, and dropped wrenches don't mark it. Broadcast flake into the wet coat for the classic showroom finish and built-in slip resistance, or leave it solid-color for a commercial look.

The 2:1 kit — the pro build

The 2:1 epoxy-class system is what installers use when the floor needs real film thickness: high-build, self-leveling, with the chemical hold-out for shops that see brake fluid, fuel, and solvents. It rewards good technique — measured mixing, a moisture check, and a properly profiled slab — and repays it with a floor that shrugs off a decade of shop abuse. If you install floors for a living, this is your production system, and we price it like we know that.

Fast-patch first: fix the slab before you coat it

Almost every garage floor older than ten years has something to repair: spalled patches by the door, a settlement crack across the bay, pitting where salt pooled under the car every winter. SlabLock Fast-Patch is a rapid-set repair mortar that accepts topcoating in about an hour — fill, screed flush, and keep moving. Cracks get routed and filled; pits get skim-coated. Coating over unrepaired damage just photographs the damage in plastic, so the patch step is in every spec we send.

Beyond the garage bay

The same systems handle the concrete around the garage: workshop and basement floors (moisture test first — we'll tell you how), storage sheds, laundry rooms, and covered patios. The 1:1 kit's UV stability means a coated floor doesn't amber where the sun hits it through the door — a quiet advantage over bargain epoxies that yellow in a season.

Climate notes

Freeze-thaw is the slab-killer in northern garages: water in the pores expands, the surface pops. A coated slab can't drink, so there's nothing to freeze. In humid climates the concern flips to moisture vapor pushing up from below — that's why our spec starts with a moisture test, and why we'll recommend a vapor-tolerant primer when your slab needs one instead of letting the kit fail and arguing about it later.